Sorting Through Filtration Options
There are dozens of manufacturers producing
hundreds of filters. Each month a new filter gets thrown onto the
market. Which one is best? What's the difference in them? What do you
need to know if someone else asks you about the differences? Here
we'll try to untangle the tangled mess of filters on the market, and
make you an expert in the field of pond filtration.
The Three Types of Pond Filtration
The three types of pond filters include biological, mechanical, and
chemical / sterilizer filters. Biological filtration works by using
bacteria to break down pond wastes, converting them into harmless
particles that can be used as aquatic plant fertilizers. Mechanical
filters work by trapping and removing debris and sediment, thus
cleaning the pond water. Skimmers and pre-filters for pumps are two
examples of mechanical filters. Water sterilizers, such as
ultraviolet or ozone generators, destroy all living organisms that
they contact. They are higher maintenance, and should be left for
pools and spas. Many filters overlap into more than one
category. For example, our BIOFALLS has large amounts of surface area
for biological filtration, while the filter mats help with the removal
of fine to medium sized particles, which is a mechanical variety of
pond filtration. Biological FiltrationThere are many
types of nutrients found in a pond system - fish waste, uneaten fish
food, leaves and runoff from lawns to name a few. High levels of
ammonia (a form of nitrogen) are highly toxic to fish and are a major
contributor to prolific algae growth. In pond construction, the
primary nutrient that biological filtration utilizes and renders
usable is nitrogen. How it works.
In biological filtration, certain bacteria, known as facultative
bacteria, absorb ammonia, and turn nitrites into nitrates, which are
not as dangerous. These bacteria require oxygen to live, so it's
important for the pump to run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. If the
pump shuts down, the bacteria can quickly use up all of the oxygen and
die. Nitrates are removed from the pond by another biological
filtration method known as de-nitrification. This process occurs only
in anaerobic (without oxygen) areas of the pond. That's why it's not
necessarily bad for some areas of your pond to experience minimal
water flow (such as on the bottom of the pond an inch or so beneath
the gravel). The bacteria that live in this area of the pond turn
nitrates into nitrogen gas, which is released into the atmosphere.
For any biological filtration to work, there literally needs to be
billions and billions of bacteria working to purify the pond. They
prefer to anchor on to things, which is why surface area is so
important. More surface area means more bacteria, and more bacteria
means better biological filtration. (Water
Garden Plants are great biological filters). A
complete pond filtration system.
A good biological filtration system, teamed up with a mechanical
filter (such as a skimmer) to remove solids before the water enters
the biological filtration unit, is the most effective way to filter
water. As the water enters the biological filter, there should also be
a swirl chamber designed to avoid channeling, and to allow more solids
to settle. Next. the water should flow up evenly through the
filter media. Any number of materials could be used as long as they
have a high amount of surface area. We've found lava rock to be a very
effective material. The final factor in a good biological filtration
method is that the water is well oxygenated on its return to the pond.
This happens most naturally and most easily through a waterfall or a
stream. Mechanical Pond Filtration
Mechanical filters rid ponds of larger particles, waste, and
sediment. There are many types of commercial filters designed to
perform this task. Because they remove larger waste particles in the
pond, and because they work so effectively, some need to be cleaned
quite frequently.
Sedimentation Filters
Sedimentation filters allow particles that are heavier than water
to drop to the bottom of the pond, where they are removed through a
filter that is hooked up to a bottom drain. They only remove the
larger particles, and have to be installed where they can be fed by
gravity.
Skimmer Filters
There are two main types of skimmers - box skimmers and floating
skimmers. Both types filter the water by removing floating debris and
waste before it's had a chance to move to the bottom of the pond. The
box skimmer is the predominant type of skimmer on the market today
because it's easy to maintain.
Box style filters come with either vertical or horizontal skimmer
mats. Aquascape pioneered the horizontal filter mats, which prove to
be the most effective, while providing the least amount of
maintenance. In order to test the differences between them, we
installed both types and gathered all of our field experience. We also
considered comments from our customers who installed the two styles,
and have listed them below.
Vertical Filter Mats
The vertical filter mat was the hottest new design on the market
in 1997. This mat was designed after the horizontal mat had
established itself on the market, to signal the pond owner when the
mat needed to be cleaned, and to provide easy access to the mat, by
putting it in a pull out tray.
Design liabilities of the vertical filter mat:
The tray that supports the filter mat becomes distorted and very
difficult to push in or pull out, especially once the ground around
the skimmer has settled, and the walls of the skimmer have bowed
inward.
After the mat has collected smaller particles, it gets heavy and loses
its durability / shape.
The vertical filter mat creates two chambers in the skimmer, one for
the net and filter mat and the other for the pump. Once the mat
accumulates some waste material, the water flows through it so slowly
that is creates a false water level in the pump chamber, exposing the
submersible pump to air.
The vertical matt design disallows an automatic water fill valve to be
used effectively. Because the water level of the pump chamber
fluctuates constantly, it's possible that the automatic fill valve
will run continuously flooding the pond's edges.
Maintenance of the vertical filter mat:
Frequent cleaning of the mat.
Constant monitoring of the filter mat to make sure there is enough
water in the pump chamber for the pump to operate properly.
If an automatic water fill valve is installed, checking to make sure
it's not running continuously.
Horizontal Filter Mats
The horizontal mat design was created in the field as the first
professional pond skimmer. It's breezed through the test of time,
showing why it's still the #1 selling skimmer on the market today. Now
entering its 7th generation, the horizontal design is still standing
at the top of the mountain, and here's why:
Design benefits of the horizontal filter mat:
Allows water to pass evenly through the mat.
Made of sturdy materials and evenly balanced on the support rack.
Traps all smaller debris that passes through the net.
Lays flat so there is no snagging or early wear and tear.
Never clogs to the point of preventing water from passing through, so
the pump chamber does not run dry.
An automatic water fill valve can be used without the worry of excess
water being introduced into the system.
Maintenance of the horizontal filter mat:
Cleaning once a month if needed.
May have to replace the mat every three years.
Field Testing
There are an abundance of skimmers being advertised, they all look
great on paper, but how will they perform in the field? That's the
question. When installing the vertical mat skimmer, we immediately
noticed that the mat was creating a problem by blocking the flow of
water to the pump. Before installing the automatic water fill valve,
we determined that if the pump chamber behind the vertical filter mat
was constantly low, then the auto fill valve would constantly run.
When considering skimmers, always try to find out if and how
they've been field tested. Realistically speaking, what insurance does
the homeowner, and therefore you, the installer have that this skimmer
is going to stand the test of time, and be maintenance free as the
manufacturer claims? Keep in mind, Aquascape Designs is still the only
manufacturer that installs their filters on a daily basis. Field
tested, field proven.
Filter Construction Methods and Materials
The major difference between filters has mostly to do with the way
they're constructed. There are four common filter manufacturing
techniques, including rotational molded plastic, fiberglass, blow
molded plastic, and vacuum forming. All skimmers and BIOFALLS
manufactured by Aquascape Designs are made of rotaional molded
polythylene. We chose this material and method of construction after
years of researching the pros and cons of all the available products.
Rotational molding uses uniform distribution of plastic throughout the
mold, which insures that the product will be extremely durable and not
contain any weak points. It also has a certain degree of flexibility
which allows the filter to expand and contract in the ground without
cracking from the freeze / thaw cycles of the earth.
Biological Pond Filtration
Every conventional water gardening, Koi, or
pond magazine that you read will advertise a dozen different kinds of
filter media. The main purpose of filter media is to provide surface
area where bacteria can grow and serve as your biological filter.
While all will basically do the job, some do it better and simpler
than others.
Bio Balls
Bio Balls are small plastic balls with different
ridges and shapes that re purely used as bacterial surface area. The
more sides and protrusions the bio balls have, the more surface area
they have. While they do have the surface area that we require,
they're also very costly.
Brushes
Brushes usually hang down from a bracket or stem somewhere in the
filter. They have large amounts of surface area to encourage bacteria
growth, but they can only be used in a small percentage of filters. To
adequately filter a pond of any size with only brush filters, the
amount of brushes required may be unfeasible, while they're mainly
intended to provide surface area for bacteria, they do an adequate job
of removing medium to large size bacteria as well.
Ribbon
The ribbon used as filtration material is very similar to the
plastic straps that you sometimes find wrapped around boxes for
packaging. These ribbons are lightweight, but don't have a large
amount of surface area. Therefore, a large quantity of ribbons would
be required to accomplish a large amount of filtration.
Foam
The main goal of foam is to remove small to medium sized waste
particles. The vast amount of surface area also creates a good surface
for bacteria. Because the pores in foam are small, they clog fairly
quickly, and are less than conducive to large particles.
Ceramic Media
Ceramic is one of the most expensive forms of filtration media on
the market today. As its name implies, it's made of fired ceramic and
contains many pores designed to create surface area for bacteria
colonization. While it's a good form of media, the cost far outweighs
the benefit.
Lava Rock
After all our years experimenting with different biological media,
we've found, dollar for dollar, that lava rock is the best filter
media on the market. Lava rock not only has numerous pores creating
excellent breeding area for bacteria, but also acts as a mechanical
filter by removing medium to large-sized waste particles as well. It's
by far, the least expensive and most cost effective of all filter
media.
Sterilizing Pond Filtration
Ultraviolet Filters
Ultraviolet clarifiers, sterilizers, and filters are accessories
designed to control green water algae, which leads to pea soup colored
pond water. This filtration is accomplished by passing water through a
tube that houses an ultraviolet light bulb. The light kills the living
microscopic particles in the water, but unfortunately, the UV
filter also kills all beneficial bacteria and microorganisms it comes
in contact with too.
Commonly Asked Questions
What effect does UV light have on pond water?
Ultraviolet light damages the algae cells, preventing them from
normally multiplying. It also alters the proteins on the surfaces of
bacteria cells and other fine debris particles, encouraging them to
flocculate into larger particles. The mechanical filters then remove
these larger particles more easily. To be fully effective, a UV filter
should be used in conjunction with a biological and mechanical filter.
Will UV control hair algae or string algae?
No, they will not control hair algae or string algae. A UV filter does
not affect anything that does not pass directly under the ultraviolet
light. They also have no effect on fish and plant waste, even though
some manufacturers claim they do.
Why does Aquascape Designs actively discourage the use of UV
filtration?
UV filters treat water with radiation to kill algae, but that
radiation also kills beneficial bacteria. Would you rather treat your
pond with bacteria and natural biological filtration, or with
unnatural and ultimately harmful, radiation? We prefer to treat the
pond naturally.
An ultraviolet filter is a very expensive item. Besides the initial
expense, the bulbs in the filter need to be replaced every six months
in order to be effective. These replacement bulbs are expensive all by
themselves.
External Pond Filtration
External filters are probably the most talked about filters in the
pond industry. They have a popular past, mostly because there were so
few options at the time. Let's take a look at the mechanical and
biological workings of the external filters available in our industry
today.
External filters evolved from the swimming pool industry, where
noise and camouflaged filters are inconsequential (people aren't
expecting a natural look), and where maintenance is required because
the water is chemically controlled and filtered. The external filter
was designed for swimming pools where the chemicals are required for
swimming safety.
Whether it was a sand filter or a diatomaceous earth filter, the
word filter in the name encouraged pond hobbyists to retrofit pool
filters for ponds, thinking they'd solve their daily maintenance
problem. The fact of the matter is, a chemically controlled filter
works poorly with a biological environment. Think about it for a
minute...is the chemical filter designed to filter fish poop...is it
designed to filter dead, decomposing lily leaves? Probably not?
Instead it's designed to work with chlorine and other chemicals right?
The bottom line is ... pool installers don't use our biological
filters to keep their pools clean, and we suggest you avoid using
their chemical filters to clean your pond. Here are some other filters
derived from the pool industry that you can easily find on the market.
Bubble Bead Filter
This external biological filter is a molded PVC canister that contains
plastic beads. The water flows through the beads, and is then flushed
back into the pond. A UV clarifier is sometimes used with this system.
This has to be regularly back flushed for it to function properly.
These types of filters are very large, expensive, and impossible to
hide outside of a natural pond.
Sand Filter
This mechanical filtration system is used primarily in the pool
industry. The filter acts like a net or filter cloth that allows the
liquid to pass, but not the solids. It needs to be backwashed
regularly for it to function properly because of fish waste and solid
organics that build up in the sand. If it's not backwashed, then the
waste will cure inside the sand, causing it to turn anaerobic and
harden.
Vortex Filter
In this external filter, the water flows by gravity or forced
pressure into a pump that's shaped like a cone. After reaching this
cavity, the water is directed into a rotational spin. This forces
solids to fall to the bottom of the filter, while suspended particles
get caught in a strainer-like filter that must be periodically washed.
The filtered water passes into a spray bar that leads back into the
pond.
Canister Filters
These non-professional types of filters come in alls sizes,
shapes, and styles. Generally, this type of filter is targeted toward
do-it-yoursefers with a very limited budget. Ponds that have this
filter are generally the smallest backyard ponds (around 200 to 1000
gallons). These filters clog easily and frequently and, quite frankly,
are ugly to look at sitting next to the pond.
Filtration Problems to AvoidFloating Skimmers
A few manufacturers are currently producing floating skimmers.
They float on the pond's surface and are connected to the pump by a
section of pipe. The pump re-circulates the water and draws any debris
floating on the water surface. Debris is then caught in a sieve type
container, which is only meant to handle small pieces of floating
material. Floating skimmers are only effective in very small ponds,
and because of their size and the sieve through which the water enters
the pipe or pump, they must be entered frequently. It's not as easy,
and it's certainly not leisurely or relaxing...it's work!
Pump Pre-filters
Pump pre-filters are made of foam that traps small particles of
debris. They are usually attached directly to the pump, and connected
to a fountain pipe that leads to a waterfall. As the foam filter
becomes saturated with debris, there will be a constant noticeable
decrease in the water volume, which will require frequent cleaning of
the filter. Remember the previous problems? Well in this case, you're
looking at the same problem with a different style of filter.
Submersible Filters
This is a pre-filter for the pump, where the water is drawn down
through the filter foam and pumped up to a fountain or other water
feature. It mechanically clears the water by removing small particles
of algae and organic debris. Biologically it cleans the water by
removing ammonia caused by fish waste. Beneficial bacteria live in the
filter and convert ammonia to harmless nitrates. These filters also
require lots of maintenance to maintain the water flow to the
waterfall or fountain. Magnets
Magnets are a new item in the pond industry, what they claim to do
is alter the magnetic fields of minerals in the water. The
manufacturers claim that these minerals, if left unchecked, cause
string algae in ponds and lime scale in an ultraviolet filter. Our
team has tested the magnets and their presence has shown no noticeable
changes in the water quality or algae levels. None! Bottom
Drains
The only reason that we've included bottom drains in the water
filtration section is that many filters rely solely on water
that's circulated from the bottom of the pond. With older filtration
systems, the water that was near the bottom contained everything that
settled, including fish and plant waste. This contaminated water was
then transferred into the filter system that was intended to eliminate
wastes. To use here at Aquascape Designs, bottom drains
represent one of yesteryear's pond construction techniques. With
modern pond filtration techniques, a bottom drain is not only
unnecessary, but counterproductive. The rocks and gravel on the bottom
of the pond are covered with billions of tiny bacterium that break
these wastes down and convert them to useful plant fertilizers. When
installing most bottom drains, a hole needs to be made in the lowest
part of the water garden. If the seal around the bottom drain fails,
all your water will drain out of your pond leaving your fish high and
dry. The risks involved in bottom drain installations outweigh any
potential benefits that they may have. And in the end...
After learning about all the different filtration techniques, it still
all boils down to one thing ... what's best for you to install? The
greatest attribute that we bring to the table is that the filters you
install from us have been thoroughly tested in the field. They are
currently being installed by our very own construction crews, as well
as thousands of other crews across America every single day of the
week. They're tested and we know they work before you ever get your
hands on them.
The content of the Pond & Water Garden Resources Website comes from
the book Pond Builders Bible everything Aquascape Designs Does
Revealed. Published by Aquascape Designs, Inc. / The
Pond Guy Publications. | Batavia, IL |