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Pond Construction Methods & Techniques
Construction Technique #1 : Getting Off to the Right Start
It may seem really basic, but it's extremely important to know how
to properly excavate a pond. We all know that a contractor can dig a
hole, but do you really know the benefits of doing it right? Our
step-by-step process will undoubtedly save you construction time,
materials, and headaches.
To get off to the right start and avoid surprises later on. there
are a couple of things to do before construction starts:
- Assess the property where the pond will be located and take note
of all existing structures and utilities.
- Using a site or laser level, determine the high and low areas
where the pond will most likely be constructed.
Site Assessment
Go around the pond perimeter to determine the high and low areas
in relation to the main viewing area. Most of our ponds are located
next to a patio, so the patio would be a starting point. We like the
water to come right up to the viewing area, so we typically set the
water 2" to 3" below the level of the patio. Once the water level is
established, we construct the entire pond perimeter a minimum of 2" above
the water level.
At the back edge of the pond, where the waterfall is located, the
level would be much higher, depending on the waterfall height. All
measurements taken from this point forward will be in direct
relationship to the water level!
Pond ExcavationTechnique #2 : Constructing Ledges
Purpose of Constructing Ledges
Safety - If someone were to accidentally or purposely walk into
one of our ponds, it would be like walking down a gradual staircase,
not a steep, slippery, dangerous drop off.
Strength and Stability - Terracing is much more stable and less likely
to collapse than a steep, tall wall.
Aesthetics - Our ponds are very clear, and you will see the bottom
contours, adding interest to the pond's interior.
Aquatic Plants - The different ledge depths are perfect for planting
the many different species that are available.
Stone Usage
Using our formulas an 11' x 16' is 176 square feet divided by 65 =
2.7 tons of rock. We always round up, so the new number is 3 tons of
boulders. This is an average, and if we want some character stones, we
would add in another half ton bringing it to 3 1/2 tons.
The top ledge of an 11' x 16' pond has the greatest perimeter. It's
approximately 45' long. Using a mix of stones, we would need 1 1/2 to
2 tons. The middle and lower shelf combined are approximately 45'
long. We would need another 1 1/2 to 2 tons. Our estimated amount of
stone was 3 1/2 tons and it should be fairly accurate. If the pond
were excavated without shelves, not only would we need an extra 1 1/2
to 2 tons of stone to cover the steep walls, it would also take
several more hours to excavate.
Constructing the First Ledge
Now you're ready to dig the first ledge! It's typically 6" to 10"
deep and dug around the perimeter of the entire pond. Remember this
ledge should be covered with gravel, so a ledge that is 6" deep will
become 4" deep after it is constructed.
Ledges can vary according to their usage, but they do not have to
be perfect. Remember, our goal is to copy nature, and natural ponds
don't have perfectly level or symmetrical ledges graduating toward the
bottom of the pond. When the first ledge is completed, mark out the
next area to be excavated.
Technique #3 : Berm Construction
During the excavation phase, the filters and piping are laid as
well. The BIOFALLS is always set first, and the flexible piping
follows. This is important for peak efficiencies of the crew. The
excavated soil is used to construct the berm around the BIOFALLS and its
size should be equivalent to the size of the pond. In other words, if
the pond is 11' x 16' and 2' deep, the berm should be 11' x 16' and 2'
high. If the BIOFALLS is set higher, more soil will be needed to
disguise the waterfall, and may seem out of place. If it's set lower,
the berm will need to be more spread out in order to use the soil.
Each construction site is evaluated by the salesperson as to how high
or low the waterfall should be.
Soil usage is often an overlooked part of the construction process.
Our crews rarely remove soil from a construction site and if the
quality of the soil is poor, organic topsoil is brought in to be used
for future plantings. The larger and broader the berm is constructed, the easier it
will be to naturally incorporate plantings to help a water feature
reach it's potential.
Large Construction Projects
On larger constructions of 600 square feet or more, we bring large
equipment in to help with the excavation, larger boulder placement,
and material handling. Skid-steers and backhoes are the two most
common pieces of equipment, but cranes and loaders can be used as
well. A skid steer can be effective in excavating the top shelves of
the pond, but the bottom and final shaping should still be done with
hand tools. A good backhoe operator can maneuver around enough to do
quite a bit of digging, but some handiwork is always necessary to
clean things up.
Pond Construction Technique #4 : Plumbing
Plumbing, a key component of Pond Construction
A well-designed water feature includes many components and
construction materials for installation. One key component is a
recirculation system, which requires plumbing. Like everything else,
there is a right way and a wrong way to plumb your water feature.
What Aquascape Designs Recommends:
Flexible PVC - This stuff is great! It
came to us from the pool and spa industry. All connections are made
with the primer and glue included in our ProPond Construction Kits.
Pros
Can be rolled tightly for transportation.
Strong Memory. Which means it will unroll and straighten out much more
easily than poly pipe.
Can handle sharp turns and tight corners, which alleviates head
pressure on the pump by avoiding the use of trees and elbows.
Will expand and contract with seasonal changes.
Cons
None!
We can honestly credit the use of flex pipe for giving birth to the
"one day pond." For years we struggled to complete a pond
construction in a single
day, and for years we were pretty darn close. Flex pipe was the answer
to our prayers.
Pond Construction : Plumbing Components
Check Valve
This plumbing component is used to prevent water from draining out of
the BIOFALLS and flowing back into the pond when the power to your
pond is cut. If the electricity goes out, or the user simply unplugs
the pump, gravity will naturally pull the water from the return line
back into the pond, emptying the BIOFALLS.
Without the water, the bacteria that has seeded within the media in
the BIOFALLS will most certainly die. Depending on the length of the
pipe run and the amount of pond surface area, the water may rise
enough to exit the skimmer overflow. This will force the user to
compensate for the water loss by "topping off" the pond once it's
restarted. A properly constructed check valve will solve these
problems by trapping the water in the pipe and BIOFALLS, with a
one-way flap gasket contained within the check valve.
The Manifold
The manifold is mainly used to split one line into two while
creating less friction than a standard tee. The manifold takes a
curved path instead of dead ending and shooting left or right. We
suggest using a manifold for several construction applications. The most common use
is to split the flow of one large pump into two mini or standard BIOFALLS. Aquascape Designs offers a 3" x 3" manifold assembly with
elbows and 2" reducer bushings to accommodate several different pipe
configurations. Manifold installation requires glue and primer only.
Ball Valve
A ball valve is used to restrict or divert the flow of water
through a pipe. A 1 1/2" and 2" ball valve are available from
Aquascape Designs. turning the red handle moves the ball inside and
allows the user to evenly distribute the flow rate of one pump through
two or more BIOFALLS. Ball valves can also be used in pond
construction to slightly reduce the flow of a waterfall, or as an
alternate check valve by fully turning the handle and preventing water
backflow from the pipe and BIOFALLS.
Conversion Kits
There are two conversion kits available from Aquascape Designs.
The first one is a 2" to 3" to be used with pumps that are capable of
producing greater water flow than a 2" pipe can handle (apx. 4,800 gph).
- Conversion kits should be run directly through the discharge
hole in the back of the skimmer and connected to the 2" check valve
assembly.
- The other end is converted and will adapt to one 3" line.
- This will alleviate head pressure from the pump, and allow it to
achieve maximum water flow.
Be Prepared for Other "Plumbing"!
From time to time during pond construction, you may come across
irrigation systems, as we often do. To save yourself delays and
confusion, familiarize yourself with the plumbing and tools needed to
work with these types of systems. You may want to carry a set of the
necessary tools with you so you can divert the lines to accommodate
your pond construction.
Pressure Relief Valve
A pressure relief valve (PRV) was designed to counter the effects
of hydrostatic pressure in larger constructed ponds with a minimum
depth of five feet. Hydrostatic pressure builds up beneath the liner,
usually due to a high water table, and forms air bubbles. The pressure
can be so powerful that it actually stretches the liner and forms
liner bubbles that can be seen above the water level, regardless of
the heavy rocks holding it down.
The PRV is a spring loaded device (rated at 90 PSI) that opens when
enough hydrostatic pressure is present, allowing the ground water to
enter the system. Once the pressure is released, the valve will close
on its own, and the spring gasket will re-seal the system. A minimum
depth of five feet is recommended to create enough pressure on top of
the liner to counter the PSI rating for the valve, and allow the
device to pop open. For example, a PRV will not work on a pond that is
50' x 50' x 3' deep, but will work on an 11' x 16' x 5' deep pond
construction.
Note: Alternative methods of pressure relief involve running a
small diameter pipe underneath the pond liner, allowing gases and
groundwater to escape.
Automatic Water Fill Valve
An automatic water fill valve is a device installed in the back
corner of a skimmer to help counter the effects of pond water
evaporation or a slow leak, by adding small amounts of water, and
maintaining a consistent water level.
- This device is very similar in construction to a toilet bowl
float valve. When the water level drops, the fill valve opens and
tops off the system.
- Can be connected to an ordinary garden hose spigot using our
1/2" poly irrigation pipe and a garden hose assembly. Use a two hose
adapter to allow use of both the garden hose and water fill valve
from the same spigot.
Use the 1/2" poly irrigation pipe to tie the WFV into the
existing irrigation system.
Regardless of which approach you take for installation, WFV lines
must be blown out in the winter to prevent freezing and cracking.
Overflow Construction
An overflow design is built into the back of each Aquascape
Designs skimmer. The overflow will be the lowest predrilled hole in
the back of the skimmer mold.
- There is a bulkhead fitting and MPT slip provided for the
installation of the skimmer overflow. Install the bulkhead fitting
and MPT slip.
- Connect a minimum 5' of flex pipe to the overflow MPT slip with
primer and glue.
- Simply run your overflow pipe to a low retention area of the
site.
Fittings
Bulkhead Fitting
A bulkhead fitting is a water tight gasket seal used in
conjunction with an MPT slip to connect a pipe to the back of the
BIOFALLS and skimmer molds. It is also used for the installation of a
pressure release valve.
- Installing a bulkhead fitting will require the use of channel
locks.
- Remove the nut and place the bulkhead with the rubber gasket on
the inside (water side) of the mold's pre-drilled hole, exposing the
threads of the fitting on the outside of the unit.
- Fasten down the plastic nut and washer, turn counterclockwise
one to two turns past hand tight.
- Note: 3" Bulkhead fitting does not include a plastic
washer.
MPT Slip
An MPT slip (male pipe thread) is a fitting that threads into a
bulkhead to connect a pipe into the BIOFALLS and skimmer molds. It is
also used in the check valve assembly to adapt the valve to the
discharge of the pump. Wrapping silicone or Teflon tape or a bead of
silicone around the threads of the fitting is suggested to maintain a
water tight seal.
Construction Tip #5 : Installation Sealants
Glue and Primer
The glue and primer used with Aquascape Design's ProPond Kits are
included with the installation package. The glue and primer are
specifically designed to prepare and adhere sections of flexible PVC
pipe to various fittings and components. You can use any glue and
primer on the market as long as it's rated for use with flexible PVC
pipe. Standard schedule 40 glue and primers simply don't have the
right bonding strength and temperature to work with flex pipe.
Silicone Sealant
The silicone sealant used by Aquascape Designs is included in the
installation package of the ProPond Kits. Any silicone on the market
will work, as long as the silicone is labeled as "fish safe" or "food
safe." Black silicone is much easier to disguise, but clear silicone
will work just as well.
Teflon Tape
Using Teflon tape on the threads of certain plumbing fittings is a
technique that the Aquascape construction crew used religiously before
the days of silicone sealant. It's a common technique used in the
plumbing industry and has proven to be very effective in forming
water-tight seals on threaded plumbing fittings. Since our silicone
sealant is included in our ProPond kits, we suggest using it in place
of Teflon tape, but either one works fine. Simply apply one or two
layers of tape on the threads of an MPT slip or PRV, and fasten down
the bulkhead fitting.
The 18 Steps of Pond Construction from Start to Finish:
- Mark Pond Area
- Place Skimmer and BIOFALLS
- Lay Plumbing
- Hook up BIOFALLS
- Excavate Pond
- Install Liner and Underlayment
- Hook-up Skimmer
- Rock in Pond
- Position Underwater Lights
- Wash Stones
- Fill Pond
- Build Waterfall and Stream
- Bring in Top Soil
- Build Retaining Wall
- Tweak Waterfall
- Trim Liner
- Mulch Berm
Clean Up
Certified Aquascape Contractors (CAC's) are the most
qualified and informed installers in the pond construction industry. All CAC's
are required to attend continual training and education seminars and
maintain a proven record of outstanding work and dedicated customer
service and support.
To Find a CAC in your are
Click Here
The content of the Pond & Water Garden Resources Website comes from
the book Pond Builders Bible everything Aquascape Designs Does
Revealed. Published by Aquascape Designs, Inc. / The
Pond Guy Publications. | Batavia, IL |